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this post. DescriptionA logical line up the North Face of the Aiguille du Midi directly under the cable car that finishes on the Midi's east ridge. The route is mostly 50-60* snow climbing (mostly unprotectable), and follows a series of zig zagging lines. The climbing is nothing to write home about, but the convenient access, descent, and visibility on every ride you've ever taken up the Aiguille du Midi add to it's appeal. The fame of the first ascensionist also gives the impression that you could be in touch with a piece of history.
Start in a prominent couloir at the base of the Midi that diagonal's left. Break right along a separate steeper couloir (60*) that ends at a short rock step (5.5). The rock step takes you left to a large snowfield (40*). A narrow couloir (60*) leads right from the end of the snowfield to a snow ridge on the crest of the Midi's north buttress. This crest takes you to the summit ice fields. Surmount these to finish on the Midi catwalk.
Most of the snow climbing is unprotectable, and is best soloed or short roped. If you don't know how to short rope make sure both you and your partner are solid on the terrain.
Approach: 1.5hrs
Guidebook time: 3-5hrs from bergschrund to summit.
Descent: Midi lift (30 minutes).
Directly under the cable cars of the Aiguille du Midi. Approach as for the Papillon Ridge, and continue on to the end of the leftmost lateral moraine. Pass this moraine high, and stay below the north faces as you traverse into the bottom of the route.
ProtectionA couple cams, some screws for the summit ice fields.
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