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Vermeer's Delft Today

Delft's establishment as one of Holland's oldest cities is unique due to its geography. Unlike many Dutch cities that developed around waterways, Delft was situated in a reclaimed land area, characterized by an irregular pattern of water channels leading to the Maas River. Over time, the land where Delft was founded accumulated sand and clay, creating a stable foundation for stone construction. While initially at a lower elevation, the city's ground level rose above the surrounding farmlands due to the soil's compaction as the land was drained by canals.Walter Liedtke, Michiel C. Plomp, and Axel Rüger, Vermeer and the Delft School (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2001), xx.

"Delft's era as an artistic hub was notably short-lived, beginning in the mid-1640s and fading after the 1660s, with Vermeer being an exceptional figure beyond this period. In the early seventeenth century, Delft's strength was in portrait painting with artists like Michiel van Mierevelt (1566–1641). The influx of Flemish artists did not significantly alter this, as Delft lacked the kind of influential artists found in other Dutch cities, potentially due to its conservative culture which favored craftsmanship over innovation, which may have impeded the development of the dynamic Baroque style flourishing elsewhere.

"By 1640, the artists in Delft had yet to form a cohesive school of painting, operating independently without significant influence on each other. It was only in the late 1640s and early 1650s that shared interests and trends began to emerge, particularly with the arrival of artists like Paulus Potter (1625–1654), Emanuel de Witte (1617–1692), Carel Fabritius (1622–1654), and Pieter de Hooch (1629–1684). This group, including Delft natives like Gerard Houckgeest (c. 1600–1661) and later Vermeer, developed a mutual appreciation for light, air, and perspective, and is commonly refered to as the School of Delft, " recognized for its classicizing tendencies that appealed to the local elite's preference for fine craftsmanship. However, this artistic community was fragile and quickly declined with the deaths and departures of key figures. By 1660, many talents had moved to Amsterdam, and Vermeer's leadership role in the guild saw a diminished group. The decline continued with the city's focus shifting towards its faience industry, and despite the presence of some talented artists, the innovative spark had largely been lost. Vermeer remained a notable exception, continuing his work in Delft even as others left for greater opportunities."John Michael Montias, "Painters in Delft, 1613-1680," Simiolus: Netherlands Quarterly for the History of Art 10, no. 2 (1978-1979): 84-114.

In an age when every self-respecting painter had to travel to Rome in order to drench himself in the immortal works of Raphael, Titian, and Michelangelo, it is surprising to note that not a single one of the great masters responsible for the rise of Dutch Golden Age of painting felt the need to go to Italy. Esaias van de Velde (1587–1630), Jacob van Ruisdael (c. 1628/1629–1682), Frans Hals (c. 1582/1583–1666), Rembrandt van Rijn (1606–1669), Jan Steen (1626–1679) and Vermeer all stayed in the Netherlands, close to their home, painting for their local market.

A view of the Voldersgracht, the small street
where Vermeer was born.

Vermeer seems to have passed his entire life in his home town Delft—we know only that he made a brief trip to Amsterdam and The Hague in his last years. Some art historians believe that the artist studied painting in Amsterdam or in Utrecht although there exists no documentary proof in regards. In any case, Vermeer must have loved his home town. His two "portraits" of Delft, the majestic View of Delft, a hymn to civic pride and nature, and the humble Little Street, which narrates the intimate life as seen across an inner-city canal, are tangible proof of this deep attachment. It is also known that Vermeer painted another landscape of Delft, a "view of a house standing in Delft" as it was described in the 1696 Amsterdam auction

A lone biker at the train station gets ready to take a tour of Delft (the leaning spire of the Oude Kerk can be seen in the distance).

Delft's past was long and glorious. It was the third city of Holland to receive a municipal charter, in 1246, and it remained in the forefront of Dutch history for several centuries. As well as being a center of resistance and headquarters for William the Silent (1533–1584) during the war with Spain, it was the birthplace of William and one of the war's military heroes; Hugo Grotius (1583–1645), jurist and statesman who established the principles of international law, and the scientist Antonie van Leeuwenhoek (1632–1723), one of the first microbiologists. When Holland began to flourish in the late sixteenth century, Delft shared the new prosperity.

The World of Vermeer: 1632–1675

from: Hans KoningsbergerHans Koningsberger, The World of Vermeer: 1632–1675 (New York: Time-Life Books, 1967), 58–58.

The center of old Delft is the market, which is shown as a white oblong rectangle in the middle of Johan Blaeu's plan of Delft, is de Markt, or market square. The square is not particularly large, but it is dramatic because it is the only wide-open, ornamental space within a medieval huddle of houses. Old Delft, which had about 23,000 inhabitants in 1630, two years before Vermeer was born, actually boasts only three or four real streets; the rest are alleys and canals. The canals were the arteries of Delft, carrying its trade and also its visitors; in fact, Holland's waterways were its safest and smoothest channels of transportation until well into the nineteenth Century. Marcel Proust described one such waterway after visiting Delft: "An ingenious little canal dazzled by the pale sunlight; it ran between a double row of trees stripped of their leaves by summer's end and stroking with their branches the mirroring windows of the gabled houses on either bank."

The light of Delft on houses reflected in one of the numerous canals.

Now these narrow canals lie quiet under their humpbacked bridges, but they are still used to carry supplies to the flower market, the butter-and-cheese market and the fish market, all located along the waterside. They are almost straight, but their slight bends provide surprising changes in the fall of the light, which is confined by the houses, reflected in windows and water and sifted through the canopy of the trees.

The light of Delft! Thousands of words have been written about it and its real or imagined secrets. The French playwright and poet Patil Claude wrote that it was "the most beautiful light in existence." Considered coldly, there is no reason why the light of Delft should be different from the light of The Hague or Rotterdam. But the old town is so still, even today the heavy foliage, the dark water and the old brick walls envelop it so beautifully that its light, many times reflected and filtered, does seem different once it has reached the level of the eye; it seems to have an especially soft, fluid quality.

Perhaps it is not only Delft, not just the trees or canals, which make this light so special, but also Vermeer. As Stratford-on-Avon or Walden Pond may move the visitor in a manner which has nothing to do with their physical appearances, so the light of Vermeer's town has been given a magical connotation by his work.

"While contemplating period paintings of the silent Oude Delft canal, the grizzly "snapshot" of the Delftse Donderslag by Egbert Lievensz. van der Poel (1654–1660), a stately Delft church interior or Vermeer's View of Delft, the casual viewer may wonder how these places might appear today. What has changed in the course of 300 years and exactly what remains of the past? With an improvised tour guide composed of paintings, engravings and descriptions of Delft, we stand a fair chance of finding at least a few answers.

First of all, how well is Delft conserved? "In the second half of the seventeenth century (about the time Vermeer's career was taking off) Amsterdam and Rotterdam had taken over more and more of the nation's trade because of their excellent ports—while Delft slowed down. Its famous pottery industry continued to flourish, but other businesses languished. The number of breweries in the city shrank from more than 100 to 15. It became the home of retired people and a stronghold of conservative Calvinism. Gradually, the once-vigorous city went into a decline that left it virtually dormant until the 19th century.

The one lucky result of this misfortune is that the heart of Delft today looks very much as it did in Vermeer's day, since, by the time the town came to light again, men had learned to value and preserve the architectural heritage of the past. Thus, Delft still has a few acres of houses, churches, canals and squares which lead us straight into Vermeer's world."Hans Koningsberger, The World of Vermeer: 1632–1675 (New York: Time-Life Books, 1967), 57.

Unfortunately, some of the original buildings which played key roles in the life and work of the artist have been demolished even though some of their original locations can be pinpointed with security. The Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), the Oude Kerk (Old Church) and the Stadhuis (City Hall) do still stand in all their glory, but the private dwellings of Vermeer and his extended family, and the Guild of St. Luke where he fraternized with his colleagues, have long since been torn down.

In any case, the gleaming city we see in Vermeer's View of Delft must not have been what the painter and his contemporaries always experienced. "We know that in those days, there were dozens of potteries in the city. Then there were also the many distilleries, breweries, and soap-rendering plants. Clouds of smoke from working ovens must have hung over the city almost constantly. Many products also had to be cooked or smoked, so fires would have been burning all the time. And all of this within Delft city center, where people lived and worked."Ingrid van der Vlis et al., "In the Footstep of Vermeer," in Vermeer's Delft, edited by David de Haan, Arthur K. Wheelock Jr., Babs van Eijk, and Ingrid van der Vlis (Zwolle: Waanders Uitgevers, Museum Prinsenhof Delft, 2023), 133.

"Moreover, in the midst of the town was a burial ground, and the absence of a sewerage system led to an unbearable stench. City ordinances reveal various strategies to address this issue. The city governors set and enforced numerous regulations to manage waste. There was even a recycling station in the fifteenth century, known as de Stille Putten (the silent pits), for waste processing. Dung collectors and street sweepers gathered waste from designated spots and took it to this station. Specific types of waste, like ashes and feces, were to be placed in 'ash baskets.' This collected waste was then sold, turning city cleanliness into a profitable venture. Despite these measures, the city continued to suffer from foul odors, necessitating constant updating of the rules. For example, fishmongers were forbidden from discarding offal into the canals, yet collectors regularly removed such waste. Similarly, residents were not allowed to sweep household dirt or dump privy contents into the canals, but frequent reminders indicated these practices were common."Ingrid van der Vlis et al., "In the Footstep of Vermeer," in Vermeer's Delft, edited by David de Haan, Arthur K. Wheelock Jr., Babs van Eijk, and Ingrid van der Vlis (Zwolle: Waanders Uitgevers, Museum Prinsenhof Delft, 2023), 129.

A detail of the Kaart Figuratief which shows the Markt in the center of Delft (the entrance to the towering Nieuwe Kerk on the top) where much of Vermeer's personal and professional life took place

A. Flying Fox (Vermeer's presumed birthplace and inn of his father)


B. The Delft Guild of St. Luke (professional organization of artists and artisans)
C. Mechelen (a large tavern on the Market Square rented by his father where Vermeer and his family lived after the Flying Fox
D. Groot Serpent (studio & living quarters where Vermeer resided with his wife, children, and mother-in-law, Maria Thins?)
E. Trapmolen (studio & living quarters where Vermeer resided with his wife, children, and mother-in-law, Maria Thins?) Things to do in Delft today

MUSEUM HET PRINSENHOFThe Museum Het Prinsenhof in Delft, established in 1911, offers a unique journey through the history of the Netherlands, the city of Delft, and the renowned Delftware. This museum is ensconced in a structure of monumental historical significance, a backdrop to some of the most pivotal events in Dutch history. Formerly the court of William of Orange, known as the Father of the Dutch Nation, the building's walls bear witness to the nation's storied past. Visitors can explore the significant role that Delft's citizens played in Dutch history and the evolution of Delftware into the globally recognized brand it is today. Originally erected as a monastery in the Middle Ages, the edifice later became the residence of William the Silent. His assassination at the Prinsenhof in 1584 is etched into history, with bullet holes from the tragic event still visible on the main staircase.

address: Sint Agathaplein 1, 2611 HR Delft

opening hours:
Tuesday to Sunday from 11 a.m.–5 p.m.

during school holidays:
Monday to Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
closed on Christmas Day (27 April), Christmas Day and New Year's Day

VERMEER CENTRUM DELFT The Vermeer Centrum Delft, a volunteer-run organization, offers insights into the life and work of Johannes Vermeer, showcasing his painting techniques and displaying reproductions of his masterpieces. In addition to educational exhibits, the center features a shop with an array of Vermeer-inspired merchandise. More than eighty passionate volunteers operate the center, which stands on the historic site of the former Guild of Saint Luke, once presided over by Vermeer himself as the head painter.

address:
Voldersgracht 21, Delft

openings times:
opened daily from 10 a.m. to 5 pm.
open on 24 and 31 December from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
open on 26 December and 1 January from 12 a.m. to 5 p.m.
closed on 25 December

Free guided tours on Friday and Sunday
Friday at 11:30 a.m. (Dutch)
Sunday at 10:30 a.m. (English)
Sunday 12 a.m. (Dutch)

The shop and Café Mechelen have the same opening times.

OUDE & NIEUWE KERK
For information on opening time and tickets, click here.

GENERAL & FLOWER MARKETS
Delft's main market, known locally as "de Markt," attracts visitors from afar as well as from neighboring cities such as The Hague and Rotterdam. Situated between City Hall and the magnificent Nieuwe Kerk, the market opens every Thursday. Here, a bustling array of over 150 stalls offer a variety of items including cheese, fish, vegetables, bread, nuts, and other foodstuffs, alongside clothing, bicycle accessories, and electronic gadgets. Encircling the market, a selection of pubs and open-air terraces provide idyllic spots to relax and enjoy a cup of coffee.

A short five-minute stroll from the general market is the Brabantse Turfmarkt, home to the flower market. This vibrant segment of Delft is adorned with numerous flower merchants presenting an array of thousands of flowers. On Saturdays, this venue also hosts a smaller iteration of the general market, featuring around 50 stalls.

Equally captivating is the weekly art and antiques market, a haven for tourists seeking to absorb the city's charm and scour for unique finds. This market is available on Thursdays and Saturdays from April to October. On Thursdays, you can find it alongside the canal in Hippolytusbuurt street. Come Saturday, the market expands to include a book market and extends along the Voldersgracht as well as the canals within Hippolytusbuurt and Wijnhaven, creating a delightful maze of vintage and antique treasures.

The Great Fire

Two dates crucial for the shape and socio-economic development of the city of Delft must be considered: the first is the Great Fire on May 3, 1536, caused by a bolt of lightning that struck the tower of Nieuwe Kerk. Part of the wooden tower was burned down and the organ, bells and the stained-glass windows were lost. Fanned by a strong east wind, the fire ravaged virtually everything west of the Nieuwe Kerk (houses of the time were mainly built with timber). Few of these buildings, which gave Delft its medieval character, withstood the fire.John Michael Montias, Vermeer and His Milieu: A Web of Social History (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1989), 3. The residents of Delft rebuilt their city with stone instead of wood. It also meant that few current buildings pre-date the fire. An anonymous painted copy of a map of Delft (fig. 1 & 2), complete in its details, illustrates the devastation's extent. This map also serves as an invaluable source for locating cloisters and convents and other public houses whose ruins gradually vanished with the reconstruction of the city. The painting represents nearly every house and church, whether still intact (signaled by the red of the roofs) or as a ruin.

"In the next forty years, the reconstruction of the Nieuwe Kerk and scores of houses in brick and mortar absorbed the energies of the city's citizens and depleted their resources. In the 1540s and 1550s, stately houses went up around the Groote Markt (Great Market Square) near the Nieuwe Kerk, along the Oude Delft canal, and in other neighborhoods where many dwellings had been burned down, These were the new houses, built along tree-lined canals, where wealthy citizens lived, whom common people said, 'sat on cushions and ruled the city.'"John Michael Montias, Vermeer and His Milieu: A Web of Social History (Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press, 1989), 3.

fig. 1 Map of Delft after the fire in 1536
Anonymous
Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsenhof, Delft
(Dirck Evertsz. van Bleyswijck junior (1639–1681), who was
born to a prominent Delft family, was once the owner of the map.) The Delft Powder Explosion fig. 2 Detail from the map, showing the Market Place with Nieuwe Kerk (tower, roof and window-panes demolished) and the old city hall, which in 1618–20 was rebuilt by Hendrick de Keyser to its present form.

The second catastrophe which shaped the topography of Delft was the infamous explosion of the gunpowder magazine, called the Delftse Donderslag, on Monday, October 12, 1654. About 40 tonnes (80,000 to 90,000 pounds) of black powder of the Netherlands' gunpowder reserve, which was kept in barrels in a storage magazine in a former Clarissen convent (Poor Clares) exploded at half-past ten in the morning.

The story goes that Cornelis Soetens, the keeper of the magazine, opened the store to make his weekly check a sample of the powder. "Soetens was accompanied by a colleague from The Hague, wearing a red cloak, and by a servant. A lantern was lit, a door to the store was opened, and Soetens's companion handed his fine cloak to the servant so that it wouldn't get dirty and told him to take it home. The two men went in and down the dark stairs to collect their sample. Some minutes passed. It was still an ordinary Monday morning in Delft. Five huge successive explosions merged with one another.

The earth shuddered and shuddered again. Flames rose and an intense heat fanned out in a searing wave."Anthony Bailey, Vermeer: A View of Delft (New York: Holt Paperbacks, 2002), 7. The explosion was so strong that it slammed shut doors in nearby towns and was said to have been heard as far away as the island of Texel, seventy miles north of Delft. The anchor of a ship was found 900 meters away. Large trees were sheared off to stumps, and the stained glass and roof of the Nieuwe Kerk were destroyed.

Once again, several parts of the town were reduced to rubble. More than one hundred people were killed and many more wounded.

Fortunately, a significant number of citizens were away, either visiting a market in Schiedam or attending a fair in The Hague. But Carel Fabritius, Vermeer's colleague and Rembrandt's most talented pupil, who had lived with his family in the Doelenstraat nearby the gunpowder magazine, died at his easel while working on a portrait, and along with him, a portion of his limited body of work was lost. A baby girl was rescued after 24 hours. She was still sitting in her high chair, still clutching an apple and smiling. Despite the initial Herculean effort to clear the rubble and rescue those trapped underneath, only a few survived. The recriminations came later. A Protestant preacher strongly criticized the city authorities, claiming that they had granted excessive freedom to Catholics.

fig. 3 View of Delft after the Explosion of the Gunpowder Arsenal in 1654
1654
Herman Saftleven II
Black chalk, pen and brown ink, brush and brown wash on two sheets of paper, 24.9 x 74.9 cm.
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York "Recording the News: Herman Saftleven's View of Delft After the Explosion of the Gunpowder Arsenal in 1654," Metropolitan Museum Journal, v. 31, 1996.

Carolyn LoganCarolyn Logan, "Recording the News: Herman Saftleven's View of Delft After the Explosion of the Gunpowder Arsenal in 1654," Metropolitan Museum Journal 31 (1996). Accessed October 29, 2023.

A drawing (fig. 3) by the Dutch artist Herman Saftleven (1609–1685) recently acquired by the Metropolitan Museum illustrates how a leading draftsman in seventeenth-century Holland recorded a contemporary event of catastrophic proportions. As indicated in the inscription, it represents the city of Delft after the explosion of the gunpowder arsenal of the States General on October 12, 1654. Salient points of interest are marked with letters and described in the legend below:

A. is the hole or pool 13 feet deep and full of water where the tower had stood when I drew it on October 29 new style.

B. is the Nieuwe Kerk [New Church] where the glass was destroyed and a large hole torn in the roof and was very damaged, but the coats of arms and sepulcher and the ornament on his majesty's grave was not damaged.

C. is the Oude Kerk [Old Church] where the glass and the walls were torn away. I saw a remarkable thing in this church that the wall behind the arms of Admiral Tromp was blown away but the arms were not damaged, also those of Admiral Pi et Heinz were similarly not damaged.

D. is the place where the Militia Hall stood and also where the maid of the Militia Hall was pulled out fully clothed from under the stones on October 27 so miserable from having been buried.

E. the trees which stand on the city walls were little or not at all damaged.

Saftleven's drawing is the earliest known record of the devastation, showing Delft as it looked only seventeen days after the catastrophe.

fig. 4Delft After the Explosion of the Gunpowder Arsenal in 1654
Gerbrand van der Eeckhout
Probably late 1654
Pen and brown ink, gray wash over black chalk, 10.9 x 13.6 cm.
Kupferstichkabinett, Staatliche Museen zu Berlin

The dubious honor of storing such a frightening amount of explosive material had fallen to Delft (fig. 4) because it was protected by firm ramparts. At the time Delft boasted walls, eight gates and twenty-four to twenty-six turrets for its defense system. Only the Oostpoort, dating from the fourteenth-fifteenth century, survives in its picturesque setting. The powder magazine (it was one of the five in Delft) also known as 't Secreet van Holland, as it was partly underground and concealed by trees and bushes and was largely unknown to the citizens of Delft.

News of the event quickly spread throughout the country. The States General sent a message of condolence, Queen Elizabeth of Bohemia visited, and most likely many others came to assess the extent of the damage.

fig. 5 The Delft Powder Explosion (detail)
Egbert van der Poel
1654
Oil on wood, 36.2 x 49.5 cm.
National Gallery, London

And with the city's reconstruction, opportunities to make much money abounded. Aside from the work of reconstruction and repair, illustrated pamphlets dedicated to this tragedy were sold to the curious. A close neighbor of Fabritius, the painter Egbert van der Poel (1621–1664), miraculously survived but lost his daughter and most likely other family members. Van der Poel would furnish in the coming years at least 20 views (fig. 5) of the disaster as a sort of souvenir of the event, although it is unclear whether the artist personally witnessed it. He eventually became known as the painter of brandjes (little fires), "the best painter of fire in all of the Netherlands."Walter Liedtke, Michiel C. Plomp, and Axel Rüger, Vermeer and the Delft School (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2001), 236.

Upper part of one of the stained-glass windows in the Council Hall ('Raadszaal') of the Town Hall showing two variations of the Delft coat of arms.
The dark beam in the middle symbolizes the Oude Delft canal, the origin of the city of Delft. A Timeline of The City of Delft: 1057-1836*

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