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4020 Φ Eastern Block 91-2

Eastern Block 91-2 Scenes from the Twilight of Communism

From Sept 1991 until Jan 1992 I travelled through a large part of the Eastern Bloc. The original plan was to reconnect with family and have a break between university and full-time work, so it was only by accident that I stumbled onto the post-Glasnost upheaval.

I spent seventeen weeks in Hungary, Poland, Romania, pre-dissolution Czechoslovakia and the not-quite-ex Soviet Union — experiencing first-hand The Fall Of Communism and deliberately avoiding gap-year clichés like London, Paris, Rome, Ibiza or any other part of Western Europe.

As you can imagine it was a fascinating trip. To paraphrase David Stark, it was a moment when Eastern Europe played Capitalism with Communist pieces and when millions of usually placid Socialists became unhinged.

The following images and commentary are an informal photo-diary of the visit. For personal vignettes, cultural references (songs and movies), plus a list of relevant books and articles, see also the Notes tab above.

Also note: initially this material went live in 2006, so over the years a lot of the external web-links have become broken.

Quick Links Location Description CCCP Moscow at the end of the USSR Magyarorság Budapest, Szombathely & Mátra Mountains Rumania Bucharest in December Polska Warsaw & Auschwitz under Solidarity Ĉesko Brno in pre-secession Czechoslovakia Image Gallery cccp magyar rumania polska cesko April 14, 2024 Notes Personal Vignettes

The following is a random list of unusual things noticed during the 17 weeks from Oct 1991 — Jan 1992:

Budapest Moscow Warsaw Bucharest Brno Songs

The following pop tunes, in no particular order, were all over MTV Europe in 1991/2. Because radio was still under State control, Satellite-TV was the only (free) option if you wanted to listen to contemporary music.

BTW Depeche Mode were also hugely popular, despite being ignored by MTV. It was impossible to walk through a housing estate and not see "DM" graffiti everywhere, or hear their music blaring from an 8th floor teenager's window.

Movies

The following depict the locations and capture the mood of the times rather well:

Trzy kolory: Baily (1994)
The second of Krzysztof Kieslowski's Three-Colours trilogy. Features currency speculators; peasant land-millionaires; the endlessly delayed Warsaw Metro; black market smuggling and Julie Delpy (sigh) in a love-gone-bad plot. These days, you can buy anything. Filmed in Warsaw during the '93 winter, it brilliantly captures the go-go/ get-rich-quick atmosphere of the time.
Das Leben der Anderen (2006)
A moody and serious film about the paranoia of the GDR before the Berlin Wall came down. The filmmakers made a serious effort to avoid anachronisms, so the architecture, fashions and cars are straight out of 1984.
The Russia House (1990)
Okay it's fluff and Michelle Pfeiffer is totally unbelievable as "Московская Женщина" — but it was filmed extensively on location in Moscow and Leningrad in 1989 and features a beautiful film-score by Jerry Goldsmith, with soprano saxophone by Branford Marsalis.
Good Bye Lenin! (2003)
Despite the wild anachronism of one its characters wearing a Matrix t-shirt (!), it's an affectionate satire on the After-The-Wall transition in East Berlin. Also features news and documentary footage of the era.
Das Wunder von Berlin (2008)
An okay film about the last days of the GDR regime, from the POV of a (reluctant) Border Guard. What makes the film notable is dramatised footage of the night the Berlin Wall fell.
The Rise And Fall Of The Russian Oligarchs (2005)
Part One of this Canadian TVO/ Human Edge documentary focuses on the economic chaos in Russia following the dissolution of the Soviet Union. It also features a lot of contemporary (1991-4) news footage and interviews with the main political players.
Luna Park (1992)
A French-Russian co-production with skinheads, anti-semitism and criminal hijinks in Moscow during the Yeltsin Era.
Sunshine (1999)
A moody period-piece by István Szabó, shot in art-deco and communist portions of Budapest.
Ulysses' Gaze (1995)
176 minutes of ironically pretentious visual poetry about the chaos in the Balkans after the collapse of Communism. The sequence showing the concrete Lenin statue barging down the river is memorable, the rest of the film is not. Neo-scholasticistic cineastes however Think Otherwise.
The Inner Circle (1991)
The other film Tom Hulce made. The first foreign production to shoot inside the administrative parts of the Kremlin and Lubyanka. Also features a few other scenes from Moscow (the Metro etc.)
Welcome to Sarajevo (1997)
Like its stable-mate Harrison's Flowers (2000), it deals with the darker side of the Eastern Bloc transition: the civil collapse and insanely vicious war in former Yugoslavia. BTW the savagery is explored even further in Savior (1998).
Entre chiens et loups (2002)
A trashy, poorly lip-synched French crime-caper, filmed extensively in Bucharest. The rusting tower cranes might be gone, but it's weirdly fascinating (and depressing) to see how little things have changed since '91.
Books and Articles Travelogs
Leaving Poland, Summer, 1989: A Letter Written To Friends
by Danusha V. Goska PhD
The Lost Border: The Landscape of the Iron Curtain
by Brian Rose
(2004) Princeton Architectural Press
ISBN: 1568984936
Notes: A book and website featuring photographs of the old border between East and West 1985-1990, including the "before" and "after" Berlin Wall.
Red Square Blues: A Beginner's Guide to the Decline and Fall of the Soviet Union
by Kim Traill
(2009) HarperCollins Australia
ISBN: 9780732285661
Notes: The Soviet and post-Soviet travels of a feminist / vegetarian / music-student / backpacker / reality-show contestant / free-lance ABC & SBS journalist / yummy-mummy & terrace-renovating trendie. As you can imagine most of the time it's clueless and glib, but to be fair she also presents a lot of interesting material from her visits to Russia between 1990 and 2007. (See also the Sept 2009 podcast at the ABC website).
Report on a trip to Moscow to attend the International Meeting of the Society of Exploration Geophysicists
by Richard I. Gibson
July 1992
The Tokyo to London Project
by Walter Colebatch and James Mudie
July-November 1994
Notes: A website detailing Colebatch and Mudie's motorcycle ride across China, Siberia and Russia.
Memento Park, Budapest
by architect Ákos Eleöd
1989-90
Notes: The website for the famous park in Budapest where Communist era statues and symbols are displayed.
Across the red unknown: a journey through the new Russia
by George Negus, photographs by Peter Solness
(1992) Weldon Publishing, Willoughby Australia
ISBN: 1 86302 188 4
Notes: A coffee-table book of a film crew's drive from Vladivostok to Moscow in July-August 1991. Most of the photos are pretty Siberian landscapes or posed set-ups of peasants, but there are a few interesting shots of the late Soviet era, especially of run-down infrastructure or improvised street barricades near the "White House" (parliament) in Moscow at the time of the attempted coup.
Journalism
The Year that Changed the World: The Untold Story Behind the Fall of the Berlin Wall
by Michael Meyer
(2009) Simon & Schuster, London
ISBN: 978-1-84737-430-1
Notes: Succinctly tells the story of how & why 1989 came about. What is particularly pleasing is that Meyer spends a lot of time analysing the role of Hungary in triggering the collapse, alongside the usual suspects of Polish Solidarity, Vaclav Havel and — of course — Mikhail Gorbachev. Also includes a number of first-hand accounts (by the author) of the night Checkpoint Charlie opened, or the ten (or so) days of the Velvet Revolution in Prague. Even has an account of an interview with Romania's Nicolae Ceausescu a few months before the "Christmas Festivities" (see RFE/RL PDF). BTW you can also read some of Meyer's 1990-91 Newsweek articles on the N/W website.
The Cause of the Fall
by Andrew Blast
(2009) Newsweek Magazine, New York
Notes: Review and analysis of three books which discuss the 1989 Eastbloc revolutions: Revolution 1989: The Fall of the Soviet Empire (Pantheon Books) by Sebestyen; The Year That Changed the World: The Untold Story Behind the Fall of the Berlin Wall (Simon & Schuster) by Meyer; Uncivil Society: 1989 and the Implosion of the Communist Establishment (Modern Library) by Kotkin.
Russia's oligarchs: Their risky routes to riches
Hugh Fraser - BBC World Service
July 2004
Ten years since the wall fell
The Economist magazine
Nov 4th 1999, p.22
The Fall of Stalinism: Ten Years On
by Anthony Arnove
International Socialist Review
Issue 10, Winter 2000
Ceausescu.org
Website
2005
Online archive of Romania's Ceausescu and his era
Time Magazine Archive
The End Of the U.S.S.R.
by George J. Church
TIME December 23, 1991
Just Why Did Communism Fail?
by Michael Kinsley
TIME November 4, 1991
Into The Void
by George J. Church
TIME September 9, 1991
Post-mortem Anatomy of A Coup
by George J. Church
TIME September 2, 1991
Europe The Bills Come Due
by John Borrell
TIME December 3, 1990
Freedom! The Wall crumbles overnight…
by George J. Church
TIME November 20, 1989
Eastern Europe: Chips off the Old Bloc
by Christopher Ogden
TIME March 27, 1989
National Geographic Magazine
When the Wall fell — Berlin's Ode to Joy
by Priit J. Vesilind, photographs by David Alan Harvey and Anthony Suau
NGM April 1990, pp.105-132
Yugoslavia: A House Much Divided
by Kenneth C. Danforth, photographs by Steve McCurry
NGM August 1990, pp.92-124
The Baltic Nations
by Priit J. Vesilind, photographs by Larry C. Price
NGM November 1990, pp.2-38
Mother Russia on a New Course
by Mike Edwards, photographs by Steve Raymer
NGM February 1991, pp.2-39
Dispatches from Eastern Europe
by Tod Szulc, photographs by Tomasz Tomaszewski
NGM March 1991, pp.2-34
East Europe's Dark Dawn
by Jon Thompson, photographs by James Nachtwey
NGM June 1991, pp.36-70
The Morning After: Germany Reunited
by William Ellis, photographs by Gerd Ludwig
NGM September 1991, pp.2-41
Albania Opens the Door
by Dusko Doder, photographs by Nicole Bengiveno
NGM July 1992, pp.66-93
The Bolshevik Revolution: Experiment That Failed
by Dusko Doder, photographs by Peter Essick
NGM October 1992, pp.110-130
A Broken Empire: Russia, Kazakhstan and Ukraine
by Mike Edwards, photographs by Gerd Ludwig
NGM March 1993, pp.2-54
Czechoslovakia: The Velvet Divorce
by Thomas Abercrombie, photographs by James Stanfield
NGM September 1993, pp.2-37
Soviet Pollution
by Mike Edwards, photographs by Gerd Ludwig
NGM August 1994, pp.70-100
Crimea: Pearl of a Fallen Empire
by Peter T. White, photographs by Ed Kashi
NGM September 1994, pp.96-120
Romania's New Day: A Nation Savors Freedom
by Ed Vulliamy, photographs by Alexandra Avakian
NGM September 1998, pp.34-59
What's next / corrections…

From time to time a few more notes and links are added, but I don't plan on adding any more images as the current selection tells the story well enough.

BTW if you spot any serious errors or omissions, don't hesitate to drop me a note via the Feedback Form on the Home Page.


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